Horrifying heat is not good for ice cream. Neither, it seems, is it good for house painters. After weeks of weather-related delay, our house and kitchen were freshly painted and finally freed from painters. The outside, in its lovely new creamy white color, was baptized by a couple of non-drought-relieving nickel-sized hailstorms (thanks again, global weirding!). After restoring the cookbooks, WWII posters and various tchotchkes to our kitchen we were ready to once again bespatter its freshly painted walls with all manner of foodstuffs.
One of our first overly-involved efforts was this Peach Ice Cream Pie, based on a Bon Appetit recipe calling for store-bought peach ice cream. Michelle eschewed the easy route, hand-making this Camille Glenn version instead with some of our fresh local peaches. Assembly included spraying the kitchen with fragments of pit, since the recipe calls for the almond-flavored (and cyanide-containing) peach kernels. Making caramel (which, despite two tries, never got as dark as it should have) messed up our stove area nicely, too.
Making our favorite rabbit recipe, this time with some of Steve’s guanciale instead of prosciutto, added another layer of spots to the walls, as have several marathon sink-clearing sessions. Soon, possibly before our local peaches disappear, it will be as if the painters were never here. Oh well, at least the ceiling’s clean—at least, until the next blender explosion or something.
SUMMERTIME PEACH ICE CREAM
(adapted from Camille Glenn’s The Fine Art of Delectable Desserts) (makes just over 1/2 gallon)1/4 c. + 1 c. heavy cream, divided 1 c. milk 1/3 c. + 1/3 c. sugar, divided 2 egg yolks 4-6 ripe peaches (enough to make 2 c. purée) 1/2 TB. lemon juice pinch of salt
Scald 1/4 c. cream and milk, but don’t boil. Add 1/3 c. sugar to the egg yolks, and mix thoroughly with a whisk. When scalded milk is ready, slowly add it to the egg/sugar mixture while beating. Return mixture to saucepan. Cook, stirring until custard just begins to thicken — enough to lightly coat back of a wooden spoon. You are just cooking the egg yolks, not making a thick custard. Remove custard from heat and pour into a jar or bowl. Refrigerate until cold. This can be done a day or so ahead.
Peel peaches. (It is easiest to do so if they have been immersed in boiling water.) Remove and reserve pits. Purée peaches in a food processor with lemon juice, leaving no large lumps. Crack peach pits using nutcracker or hammer and remove kernels inside. Mash kernels and add to peach purée, along with remaining 1/3 c. sugar and salt. Mix well, cover tightly and refrigerate.
Mix cold custard with remaining 1 c. cream and freeze according to ice cream maker’s instructions, until it turns to soft ice cream. Stop turning, add peaches and continue freezing to proper consistency.