Winter is slowly, inexorably grinding its way into Gourmandistan, and our supply of local crops is dwindling. We’ve been told there are only a couple of more weeks left for local apples. While we have them, we’re occasionally enjoying one of our favorite desserts, tarte Tatin—or, as we make it, half a tarte Tatin.

This tart takes a fairly long time to make, because the apples need to slowly caramelize over low heat before going into the oven. Steve contributes his pâte brisée for the crust, but it’s Michelle who really makes the Tatin tick, patiently basting the apples until they’re golden brown. She’s found that halving the recipe works best for several reasons. Arranging four quartered apples in a small omelet pan is simpler than cramming 16 halves in a large skillet. A smaller tart is also easier to flip onto a plate, avoiding awkward (and painful) molten sugar burns from the oven-hot Tatin. No matter how much we like it, the two of us can’t eat a whole tart before it deteriorates.  Plus, using only four apples means less whining from Steve, who sees every fresh apple as a perishable treasure. (Although, this tart is so delicious, he’s willing to give up his hoard.)