Like most who inhabit this food-centric segment of the global web, Gourmandistan is not going to question the legendary Jacques Pépin. But we will cheekily update his recipe to add a bit more crunch. Michelle found this 1991 recipe (and its accompanying article declaring “la salade has arrived”) in the New York Times archives when looking for something to do with a Savoy cabbage. We thought the ingredient list had promise, but the cooking methods and the delicate Savoy made the end result a bit mushy and mild.
The next time, Michelle broke the original recipe down to its components, determining that preparing each part separately would keep things crisper. She replaced onions with lots of shallot, added some celery and carrot for more flavor and brightness, and used a regular cabbage instead of Savoy to maintain more crunch even when warmed with some just-cooked lentils. Steve doctored up the simple dressing with a bit more mustard and vinegar, and we had another go at Pépin’s “composed salad.”
The result was a much tastier, less mushy mélange of lentils, bacon and cabbage—a quite good salad that makes a lovely lunch or dinner.
(adapted from Jacques Pépin in The New York Times) Rinse the lentils in a colander, removing and discarding any bad ones. Place the lentils in a small pot along with bay leaf and thyme and cover with stock or water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat, cover and simmer until tender, about 30 or 40 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a skillet, then remove to a plate covered with a paper towel. Crumble into small pieces. Add the shallots to the bacon fat and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then add carrots and celery and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until shallots are beginning to caramelize and other vegetables are just cooked through. Season with salt and pepper. Place mustards, vinegar, olive oil and some salt and pepper in a salad bowl and whisk until combined. Add cabbage, along with the shallots and other cooked vegetables, and toss to mix. Remove the herbs, drain any remaining cooking liquid from the lentils and add them, while still warm, to the salad bowl. Add parsley and mix well. Add some good salt, if needed. When ready to serve, add the croutons and bacon and toss.LENTIL, CABBAGE AND BACON SALAD
…and croutons for extra crunch!
I know! That’s what was so screwy about the original recipe. You cooked these (way too big) croutons along with the bacon and onions. As if that would work properly… I know, I know (how well I know), things were different in 1991. 😉
Looks fabulous! I love the ingredients. My first thought was “what a fancy slaw”!
It is indeed! And thanks!
You’ve answered a question I’ve had for ages: why make a mushy salad? The answer is that you don;t have to make it mushy at all. Thanks for taking the time to refine it.
You’re exactly right. What’s the point of a salad if there’s nothing crunchy in it?
Great adaptation from one of the French greats who has made the US home! How does one copy a Legion of Honour winner with all the classical degrees from the US unis he has 🙂 ? Since I am hugely into salads even in our winter months [Down Under, shall copy yours exactly!!] thanks!! By the bye, am having huge fun with current ‘British’ recipes, especially by the now elderly Pierre Koffman and Marcus Waring both basically talking to us from Knightsbridge [well, love the Berkeley!! 🙂 !] Look up and enjoy!!!!
Oh, yes, M. Pépin is a treasure! I’ll have to follow up on Messrs. Koffman and Waring.
I wonder if the 90ies were not only a decade for bad clothes, but also mushy salads ? Anyway, your “aldentisation” does justice to these wonderful winter vegetables. Love the croutons!
Oh, dear, Sabine. I suppose I should remember. But I’ve forgotten everything. Anyway, in the ’90s, I was young and working constantly and smoking like a fiend, so I never had any reason to eat salads! 🙂
Michelle, I love your smart changes. I have been craving a classic lentil dish with a touch of tangy mustard(s). Hubby loves a crisp cabbage. Looking forward to trying your hearty yet elegant, and quite composed 🙂 salad.
Thanks, Shanna. It really was a nice lunch. Something I’ll definitely make again.
Do you deliver? Because we drove home all night from Santa Fe, and I’m quite hungry. Also I am tired, and this looks precisely like what I need for a late lunch. La salade has arrived… Indeed. Happy weekend.
Ha, and thanks! Well, that does explain your Instagrams. I’m so distracted these days, I remember thinking: “wow, that doesn’t look much like Memphis,” but it never fully registered. It was a delicious salad, though I made it probably more fiddly than it had to be. (What else is new?)
Looks beautiful! And I really like your rooster cup.
Thanks, Misti! And I love those measuring cups, too. I have a whole set from a long-ago sweet Christmas gift.
Love reading about real cooking and working out the problems. Thanks for sharing
🙂
I find Jaques leans toward the mushy.
Now, now. He’s an institution.
I met him and cooked with him once in Alaska. A very lovely man. He made raw salmon, so it couldn’t turn out mushy.
Ha! He does seem like a nice man. I think I listened to his autobiography in the car once on a trip. But, I have to admit, I don’t remember much at all about it except for the fact that he went to work for HoJo.
These are great changes! I’m not huge fan of lentils, but this actually looks and sounds really good. Maybe it’s time I gave them another go…
You’d hardly notice them. 😉
Gorgeous salad – love that you’ve added croutons for that little extra texture.
Thanks, Nick! With all the bread Steve makes around here, croutons are de rigueur (though the original did call for them, just lots bigger and thus more mushy).
These are the types of salad I am looking for, something I never tried. Looks really good and delicious, definitely a keeper
It was quite tasty. Thanks, Raymund!
Reblogged this on sarahsatticoftreasures and commented:
Love the crunch.
Thanks! As we accidentally overbought cabbage, I think we’ll have to make it again soon.
I buy a lot of cabbage. Danny will eat it raw and I love it either way. Have a good rest of the week. Sarah
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Reblogged this on A Single Serving and commented:
I’m on about under-appreciated vegetables this evening. I just reblogged a post on beet soup so now it’s on to cabbage (which I think is also under-appreciated–just relegated to “slaw” which is often just horrible). This is a great modification of this recipe. Thanks!
You’re so welcome!
I love lentils and what a perfectly simple recipe. Love that first shot of the lentils in the scooper. I’m starting to really be attracted to simple combinations of easy whole ingredients as a meal. I’ve underrated them and now that I’m starting to do things like this I’m realizing what a disservice I’ve done to myself. Thanks, Michelle and Steve!
Thanks, Amanda. I like lentils, but sometimes find them a little too boring and earthy in big doses. The cabbage was a really a nice counterpoint.
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